Creigiau Gleision (near Llanrwst), Eryri National Park

Walk: The Twin-Peaks of Creigiau Gleision from Llyn Geirionydd

Distance: 10 mls

Parking: Free at Llyn Geirionydd Natural Resources Wales / Gwydir Forest Park - Llyn Geirionydd, near Llanrwst

Bus Route: Not applicable on this one

The best thing about this walk are the views west into the high Carneddau and up the Ogwen Valley to the Glyders, Y Garn and, in particular, Tryfan.

View of Glyders and Tryfan from Creigiau Glesion

The views are breath-taking on a clear day and another good thing (for me anyway) is that you are unlikely to have to share them with anyone else on this seldom tramped route. There are several circular versions of this walk that involve navigating around the north end of Llyn Crafnant either on the way out or way back. Although adventuresome, the circular routes I have tried are more about tricky path finding than great views and general enjoyment. So the walk I am recommending is a 'there-and-back-again' that centres on the footpath up onto the twin-peaked Creigiau Gleision from the south side of Llyn Crafnant. Although not as high as its neighbours to the west, Creigiau Gleision is a proper mountain, not to be taken too lightly.

The start of the walk is at the excellent free car park (with free loos) at the south end of Llyn Geirionydd. There are two roads to get you there. It doesn't really matter which you use, both are fed from the Llanrwst and both involve very small single-track lanes with passing places (and on the one that approaches along the lake from the north, a gate) - so some patience required.

From the car park head left for a couple of hundred meters before picking up the track that cuts across the south side of the lake.

Llyn Geirionydd looking north

Very beautiful views down the full length of the lake.

At the other side of the lake, don't take the footpath on the right that would take you onto the circular walk around the lake, rather keep on the track as it turns left and up hill. A little further on, after the track cuts back right, it widens and splits left and right, at this point you will see a footpath sign ahead, more to the left than the right, that marks the beginning of the rest of the route over to Llyn Crafnant. Take this climbing steadily (and crossing the forest fire roads at least once) to bring you to the bwlch (pass) from where the descent to Llyn Crafnant begins and from where you get your first clear view of the twin peaks of Creigiau Gleision in front of you.

Once down on the road, with Llyn Crafnant in front of you, turn left passing the Cornel scout hut, heading for the south side of the lake. At the end of the road is a gate, go through this turning right toward a small white timber cottage which you will pass on your left. At the gate to a house marked Private, turn right to a bridge over a small stream. This is the path around Llyn Crafnant. Our path, up through the forest onto the tops, starts within a few meters from the bridge, just as the lake path bears right, though I have never yet been able to find the footpath marker. Possibly, it used to be on the post you can see middle-right on the photo below.

Finding the start of the path up Creigiau Glesion from Llyn Crafnant

My tip to find the path to Creigiau Gleision is to turn left into the woods just after a big boulder (see photo), heading uphill and slightly left toward the sound of the stream above tumbling down to the bridge you've just crossed. As you get nearer to the stream, you may see a small gate leading from the private garden of the house on the left and a more defined path that veers steeply upwards away from the stream - climb this path. Continue climbing up here until you come to a track. Turn left here (almost back on yourself) crossing back over the stream over a somewhat undermined concrete bridge. On the other side of the bridge there is a sign marking the footpath that climbs steeply up at a right angle to the flat path that goes straight-on (see photo below).

The concrete bridge with footpath marker above Llyn Crafnant

The footpath sign also says that the track straight-on gives access to a crag so I guess if you arrive at a crag, you've missed your turn. The path continues uphill pleasantly through the forest eventually meeting a contouring track (or wider footpath) that fords a stream. The crossing can be quite exciting after heavy rain! After crossing the stream, look out for the footpath signs and/or orange arrows on trees that show you how to continue up through the forest. Eventually, after a few wet sections, the forest gives way to an ex-forest. A typical 'post-apocalyptic' North Wales forest clearance - with some swampy bits thrown in for completeness. At this point Rosie the 'swampophile' spaniel is very smelly, but very happy. Not my personal favourite bit to be honest, however, I am able to remind myself of the lovely clear waters of Llyn Gerionydd just meters from where the car is parked to wash said mutt in before letting her back in the car and thus making the trip back home tolerable without the windows open. Also on the plus-side, on the way down (or over your shoulder on the way up), the views south over the rest of the Gwydir Forest, particularly in Autumn, are lovely.

As the ground flattens out you will see a ladder stile ahead. My tip, unless you like snorkelling in swamp water, is not to cross this but rather stay on your side and climb uphill with the fence to your right hand side. You'll see the route where others have done this. After about 15 minutes walk or so, just before a free-growing conifer by the fence as the ground becomes steeper, you will find a small section of fence where the barb wire has been considerately drawn back to allow you to step over.

The ladder style that accesses Greigiau Glesion Ridge

Once on the other side, continue climbing steeply on the well defined path until eventually reaching another ladder stile. You are now more or less on the Creigiau Gleision Ridge. Cross the stile and follow the defined path up to the first of Creigiau Gleision's twin peaks. Soak in the views of the high Carneddau and the mountains surrounding the Ogwen Valley, and also the slightly foreboding dark depths of Llyn Cowlyd Reservoir below.

The great views stay with you as you work your way first downhill and then uphill again to the second peak, about 3/4 of a mile away.

View from the second peak of Creigiau Glesion

The views west from the second peak are, in my opinion, even more spectacular than those from the first peak as the broad flank of Pen Llithrig y Wrach to the west moves gradually out of the way. After a few photos and quick game of charades with Rosie its time to head off back. Her mime (see photo) was the Lion King by the way (not hard to guess to be honest as when we play charades, she always does the Lion King).

Now its just a case of retracing your steps and after a purge of any remaining swamp residue in Llyn Geirionydd, and a dry down, driving back down to Llanrwst along the road that you didn't come up (just to keep things fresh). If you've seen more than 2 or 3 people on Creigiau Gleision you've been lucky (or unlucky) depending on your sociability.